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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.